Eating

Over the last few years the quality of food in Russia, both in the shops and in restaurants, has improved immeasurably. Now, especially in Moscow and St. Petersburg, virtually everything that we are used to seeing at home is also available, although you may have to pay slightly more for Western products than you would expect.

The range of restaurants, cafes, fast food outlets, bars and night clubs is vast, and practically every taste, from Chinese and Japanese to French and Italian, not forgetting of course the ubiquitous American influence, is catered for.

It is difficult to talk of specifically "Russian" cuisine, as many pecialities now served in Russian restaurants actually originate from different republics of the former Soviet Union. Often, the best part of the meal is the starters (zakuski), with a wide selection of dishes such as; salads, often with sour cream or mayonnaise; meats and fish, such as smoked salmon and caviar; and pickled vegetables. However, other dishes to look out for include:

Traditional soups, which originate from the Ukraine, such as borshch (beetroot base), and shchee (cabbage). These are usually served with a spoonful of sour cream, and may or may not have been prepared with meat for extra flavour.

Small meat or vegetable pies (pirozhki), which can be eaten hot or cold, and are often found for sale on street corners.

Russian-style pancakes (blini), which are served with butter, sour cream, jam or caviar.

A variant on ravioli (pelmeni), which comes from Siberia, and can be delicious especially on a cold winter’s day.

Kebabs (shashliki), usually made from lamb, are from the Caucasus, as is a type of unleavened bread (hachipouri), which is filled with melted cheese.

Finally, no visitor to Russia can fail to notice the Russian fascination for ice cream (morozhenoiye) in any weather. Even with temperatures as low as -20c, with streets buried deep in snow, you can still see queues of Russians waiting for their favourite snack!

As in many cultures, the kitchen is the favorite or central spot of the home. Russia is not different. It is where families gather for meals, friends get together to chat over a cup of tea and welcomed guests feel the warmth of Russian hospitality.

Depending on where you are from, we refer to the three meals of the day differently. To most Americans, these are breakfast, lunch and dinner or supper. Russians start the day with breakfast or zavtrak. It is a hearty meal, unlike most Americans who either skip breakfast or just grab a quick bagel. A Russian breakfast will include a protein such as eggs, sausage, cold cuts and cheese. This is accompanied by bread and butter with tea or coffee. Hot cereals are particularly popular with mothers. Yes, Russian children get their first shot of energy from a hot bowl of oatmeal, just as most of us did! Cold, boxed cereal was introduced to Russia in the early 1990's and is, generally speaking, found only in speciality stores.

Russians don't have a meal called lunch. In fact, this was a generally not understood term until the early 1990's. The second meal of the Russian day is taken about around 1 o'clock p.m. and is called obyed or dinner. This is the main meal of the day. Appetizers, or zakuski, highlight this meal. One can easily make the mistake of making a meal out of a selection from such delights as caviar {ikra}, pickles, smoked fish and various combinations of vegetables. Soup, or pyervoe, is a part of dinner along with the main course of meat or fish, vtoroye. The main dish is usually accompanied by a starch; potatoes, rice, noodles; and vegetables ; fresh or marinated. Finally, there is dessert! Tretye might be cake, stewed fruit or chocolates.

The evening meal is served around 7:00 p.m. or later. It is supper or uzhin. It is similar to dinner but without the soup and, often, dessert. One notable exception is, in the agricultural regions, field workers take their soup with supper and not with dinner.

Children and the elderly enjoy a mid-afternoon nap followed by a snack. Everyone, young and old, enjoys a nice cup of tea. It is the most common breakfast beverage. Orange juice is not a breakfast staple in Russia. Water or soft drinks may be served with dinner or supper. Americans would find it unusual to drink their cola at room temperature. Coffee and tea are offered at the end of these two meals. Of course, festive occasions and celebrations mean the presence of wine, vodka or cognac!

Traditional Russia cuisine is a delight to see and to eat. Popular and best known dishes include caviar {fish eggs}, served with beet soup or borshch, pancakes or bliny and, my favorite, beef stroganoff. The latter was actually created by a French chef for the Russian, Count Stroganov. What do you do if you have unexpected company? Serve up a spread of bliny, caviar, herring, sour cream, jams and a bit of vodka, of course!

Drinking

The Russian penchant for vodka is widely recognised, but during the communist era, when vodka was not always available, many Russians resorted to drinking anything from perfume to antifreeze instead. Today, a wide range of spirits and beers (piva) is available on sale day and most of the night from kiosks and shops. Another Russian speciality is kvas, a semi-alcoholic drink, made from fermented rye bread water, and considered very refreshing in the summer.

What do you drink or not drink in Russia? Let's start with the water. We have noted that it is not the norm to find ice in soft drinks, etc. This is typical of many European countries. Hotels and restaurants, which cater to tourists, will offer ice. But, take caution. Scientists consider about a fourth of Russia's water to be unsafe. Some areas are tainted by a parasite which will cause most unpleasant results. In short, the best thing to do is consume bottled water. If the water is not considered safe, then, neither is the ice!

Tea was introduced in Russia by the Mongols in the 1600's. It is the most popular nonalcoholic drink in Russia. Tea is consumed after meals and during a mid-afternoon break. It is not considered appropriate to drink tea with a meal. A majority of Russia's tea is imported from India and Sri Lanka. One exception is tea produced in the Krasnodar region. At the time tea came to Russia, the nonalcoholic drink of choice was sbiten. This was a brew created from hot water, herbs and honey. Tea bags are rarely used in Russia. Loose tea is brewed in a hot teapot or by using a samovar. A strong tea, zavarka, is produced, then poured into teacups or podstakannik; glasses with metal holders. More hot water is added to create the strength the drinker prefers.

Samovar is a uniquely Russian appliance. The samovar is a metal urn with a tap for pouring out the brewed tea. Older, non-electric samovars used hot coals, placed in a cylinder, to heat the water. Over the centuries, styles have varied from the basic samovar to very ornate, gold plated units.

Vodka is an alcoholic beverage, distilled by using water and pure grain alcohol. It is, typically, 40% grain alcohol with a strength of 80 proof. Vodka is clear in appearance and has no particular flavor, save that of the ethanol. The alcohol is the product of the fermentation of the starch and sugar found in grains. It is not known for certain when vodka was introduced. However, it was in existence during the days of Kiev Rus' and, as such, was first produced by the Slavs in modern Ukraine. Vodka is not aged and rarely has added flavors. It is consumed with meals and is considered to enhance the flavors of Russian cuisine.

Russians enjoy toasting throughout meals, especially where guests are present. It is obligatory to respond by downing a shot of vodka. Vodka is typically consumed neat or straight and not diluted with mixers. The shot is followed by eating something salty such as a pickle, herring or bit of sausage. While this routine is a treat for the pallet, the guest who is unaccustomed to this manner of drinking will soon find himself under the table!

There are plenty of jokes about Russians and their consumption of alcohol, especially vodka. However, Russia's problems regarding alcohol are no joking matter. The reality is that the average Russian consumes about a pint of vodka a day; or, one-half of a half liter. The reported fact that the average life expectancy of the Russia male is only 58 years, is attributed, to a great extent, to vodka.

Economics and supply and demand in modern Russia, have bred a multitude of bootleg distillers. Samogon, or moonshine vodka, is peddled in alleys and by street vendors. Sadly, these products are distilled using ingredients and conditions that, far too often, produce fatal results. In 1996, it was estimated that anywhere between 50,000 to 100,000 Russians were dying per year, from poisonous bootleg vodka. The obvious advice to the visitor is to not purchase vodka except from a reputable liquor store and to have a basic knowledge of the credible brand names. If you are invited to dinner, consider bringing the vodka. Not only will you have no need to worry as to its origins, but you will make a very positive impression on your host with this gift. By the way, a package of tea is, also, an appreciated present.

Of the many brands of vodka, the one most familiar to Americans is Smirnoff. Up until recently, this vodka was distilled in the U.S. Smirnoff descendents won a court case, reclaiming sole ownership to the name and label. Thus, Smirnoff is distilled only in Russia. Smirnoff first was produced in 1819 and incorporated in 1864. It's fame comes from the fact that the House of Smirnoff was the purveyor to the Romanov tzars.

In short, when visiting Russia, beware of the water {and ice cubes} and vodka.

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